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Another One by Jussi 🙂 asked Help with motorcycle, yamaha xs650?
I am having problems with getting it to go, the engine works fine and runs when it is in neutral but when I go to put it in gear to drive, with the clutch in it kills the engine. I can almost get it to keep running in 3rd gear but it won't go into first without killing it. Any suggestions as to what it might be? The clutch is fine but perhaps a relay? I have checked it out and the relays seem fine and I can't figure out for the life of me why it will run fine in N but when I put it in first to go it kills the engine. Please help!! Thankyou very much!! 1983 for year? I looked and saw nothing electrical hooked up to the kickstand. Thankyou 🙂 I started it with the kickstand up every time, just went to put it in gear and as soon as I did it, it died. I checked the clutch switch as well, nothing wrong there.
And got the following answer:
Sounds like the Clutch is dragging to me. Usually a simple ,proper adjustment will solve that problem. XS650's have the usual Cable Slack adjuster,,, but they also have an adjuster for the throw-out mechanism. As Slack is adjusted with the Cable,,,over time it begins to work against you because that allows the Throw-Out to get out of Best Orientation for max Disengagement travel. The LEVER feels fine---but the pressure plate is barely moving to Disengage the Clutch. So it Drags ,,,,which produces effect similar to shifting into Gear from Neutral WITHOUT pulling the Clutch Lever In. Engine Dies,,,without any huge lurch forward of the bike,,,because clutch IS at least Partially disengaged. ......................................... Procedure is to: * Put a BUNCH of Slack in the CABLE * Use the Adjuster on Left Side Crankcase cover to remove as much slack as possible. *THEN,,,remove any Remaining slack with Cable Adjuster ............................................................................... Here's Location of Throw Out Adjuster: Under the Round Plug #8 Plug just snaps in/out. http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=25670,3,0 ----------------------------------------------- Here's the actual Adjuster: http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=25680,4,0 (Hover your mouse on either of those pictures,,,and a Zoom /Enlarge button will appear to give You a better look) ......... Procedure is This *Remove the Round Plug,,,just pry it out evenly *All You'll see Under that Plug is a Slotted Adjuster Screw( Item #35) and it's Lock Nut (Item #36) *Loosen the LockNut with a 10mm wrench Back it off several turns. *Turn the Adjuster Screw IN (Clockwise) Until You Feel it LIGHTLY bottom-out against the clutch mechanism. At THAT Point there is "ZERO Clearance". Ya need Some clearance---so Back the Screw Out about 1/2 Turn. That gives a bit of working clearance between Adjuster Screw & Clutch. NOTE the Position of the SCREW SLOT at that point. Hold the Adjuster Screw,,,and snug up it's Lock Nut. Make Sure The Adjuster Screw DID NOT turn itself back in while Tightening the Lock Nut. Try Again if it Did. Ya MUST maintain that Clearance after LockNut is Tight. ***While Cable is still VERY LOOSE,,, You can VERIFY that Some Slack in the Throw Out Exists by Turning the Adjuster Screw/Lock Nut AFTER THE NUT IS TIGHT. You should be able to turn it Back/Forth a LITTLE if it Does have Clearance. If NOT,,it's TOO Tight>>Try Again. If it's TOO Tight Clutch will SLIP,Overheat,Wear,etc. When done there,,,Use Cable Adjuster to remove any remaing slack. And use HAND Lever adjuster for Final,,"Fine Adjustment". If Your Clutch Hand Lever happens to be Bent---straightened a bit,rather that curved-as-originally,,, THAT can limit Lever's range of motion & cause Clutch Drag also. ...................................... Also,,, I shoulda mentioned this FIRST. You can "Test" Clutch Release,before Adjusting. With Dead Engine,,,put Bike in NEUTRAL and roll it back and forth a bit. You should feel NO Resistance except bike's weight. Get a feel for that,,In Neutral. BETTER to do it on Center Stand,,,and turn wheel by Hand. Then,,,Do SAME THING,,,buy with Bike in 1st Gear while Holding Clutch Lever IN. COMPARE the Felt Resistance to Rolling/Turning Wheel in the 2 Different Modes. There should only be a Noticeable,Small Resistance in 1st Gear. And almost NONE in 4th/5th Gear with Clutch Pulled in. Check it Before Adjustment and After,,,to feel the improvement you've made. Any MAJOR Resistance is confirmation of a Dragging Clutch which is Not fully Disengaging. If Adjustment does not Free Up Things,,and You're Confident that it's adjusted Correctly,,, Then there's a Possiility the Clutch Plates have gone Warped. That will cause them to act like "Wave Springs" and self energize the clutch by applying their "own" compression. Warpage is Unlikely on a ol' 650,,but it Does occasionally happen. Just a suggestion,,,Mobil 1 20w-50 Motorcycle Oil will give improved Clutch action,,,and better shifting feel. Besides excellent lubrication for the engine itself. Good Luck,,, Odds are Good it only needs a simple adjustment. The symptoms You're experiencing are stereotypical of that. If bike operates well Other than That problem,,,there's almost NO Chance of it being anything Serious